Coney Offseason


Words & Photographs by Daniel Skwarna





A Brief History

Down here at Coney Island towards the end of the season I am made to feel very sad. Mammoth empty buildings, planned by extraordinarily optimistic architects remind me in an unpleasant manner of my youthful dreams. There is a mighty pathos in these gaunt and hollow buildings, impassively and stolidly suffering from an enormous hunger for the public.

-Stephen Crane

Belying it’s stark winter melancholy, Coney Island's past has been a roller coaster of sorts, knowing pioneers and Indian fights, pirates and buried treasure, a religious colony, rum runners, prize fighting, and general debauchery of the first, or worst order, depending on who you ask. Between the late nineteenth century and the end of the Second World War, Coney Island offered working class Americans a place to frolic outside the big city. Sadly, post-war America turned to new types of entertainment as urban renewal and suburbanization began to change how people lived. At Coney Island, arsonists took advantage of absentee landlords as the amusement park began to fade from collective memory. The Coney Island of today is but a ghost of its former glory. Vacant and crumbling buildings now stand where bathhouses, roller coasters, vaudeville shows, and the famous steeple chase once entertained the broiling masses. While attractions like the Cyclone and Wonder Wheel continue to draw crowds, the offseason can be a lonely affair. The boardwalk, deserted but for a few Russians haughty in their silent furs, is either shrouded in mist or buried deep beneath the snow. In early December, Brooklyn's finest handball players affectionately taunt each other at a nearby court while Brighton Beach locals stroll above them. Every Sunday, intrepid members of the local Polar Bear Club brave the icy chill of the Atlantic, much to the shock of the few intrepid tourists who make the trip from Manhattan. Nevertheless, Coney Island offers the rare offseason visitor a unique experience. Fog-shrouded rides. Vodka littered beaches. A runner, tiny and insignificant, running along the surf. Camus would revel in it.

Freezin’ cold no time to weep Boardwalk’s dead on a midnight creep It's colder than a polar bear But I don’t care Coney Island winter

-From Garland Jeffrey's Coney Island Winter





I still remember my decision to visit Coney Island. It was December 2013 and I made a spur of the moment plane ticket purchase to New York, my first trip. A few months prior I had returned from a European adventure and was now bored and listless in my little apartment. After spending a month in Russia, I knew there was a large Muscovite community in New York, especially Southern Brooklyn, also known as Little Russia/Odessa.

New York was unwelcoming – rainy, slushy, and cold. I was lonely. My apartment, a cozy walkup at 171st and Lexington (appx) felt a world away from the Manhattan core and the funky sites of Brooklyn and beyond.

On a whim, I decided to take the train down to Coney Island, a monumental journey of over 50 stops (??) and two hours. I was antsy and had nothing else to do in the rain.

Coney Island was shuttered and deserted. The Atlantic was frothing angrily, beating the shoreline and throwing walls of stinging spray at the beach and boardwalk, as if trying to topple the old Parachute Drop, standing watch over the Riegellman Boardwalk.


After a few minutes of this I was thoroughly soggy and having an increasingly hard time keeping my delicate camera equipment dry. I had not my day trip through particularly well. And it was now at least a two hour subway ride from the beach to my northerly rental, accounting for MTA delays.










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I took refuge in the closest public washroom. Like the beach, it was deserted. I stripped down to my sodden boxers and began to dry each piece of clothing exhaustively under the hand dryer, one by one.

Then each piece of camera gear, and finally the smaller accessories. Over the next twenty minutes several people walked in, eyeing me for a beat, then dismissing me as another Coney Island eccentric. I began to warm to the place as I dried out.

The rain tapered off after another fifteen minutes or so, leaving me freezing, but acceptably dry.

I poked my head out of the washroom door and scanned my immediate surroundings. A few local power walkers marched straight ahead, eyes down, hands pumping. On the beach, a few intrepid Russian men jogged between groups of gulls, like Rocky Balbo.


Otherwise the place was mine. I jumped out of the washroom and rejoined the boardwalk just below the Parachute Drop, most of Luna Park now smothered hauntingly in fog, looming like a giant amusement park squid.

If you are a nostalgic sentimental like me, you will enjoy Coney Island. There is a lot of old stuff - rides, signs, and people (mostly Russian locals that came over after the collapse of the USSR). Not all of it is new, of course (an Applebee’s had opened when I last visited in 2018). But most of it has been around for a while, like Nathan’s Famous.


It was here in 1916, in the middle of the Great War, that Nathan Handwerker fired his own salvo, giving the world the hot dog served from the original Nathan’s Famous hot dog stand. A significantly enlarged Nathan’s Famous still sits on the corner of Surf and Stillwell Avenue, feeding the hungry beach- going masses that disembark as a giant blob from the metro station across the street.












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History of Coney Island, geography, discovery, development here.



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Beach Usage

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Luna Park vs Coney Island and Brighton Beach 


















                       































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Development/evolution of main drag + photo of Nathan’s early morning






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A large part of Coney Island’s appeal in the offseason is the large empty space it offers the urban adventurer. It’s rare in New York city to have an abundance of open, and empty, space to think about the world around you. Here you have kilometres of boardwalk, a deep beach that stretches hundreds of feet from the waters edge to the attractions, and the Atlantic ocean, crawling with sharks, ocean birds, and lots and lots of plastic. You can see the horizon clearly! And the trawlers that inch along it.


As I head East along the Riegelmann boardwalk I pass the famous shuttered shops that provide so much fun and food throughout the year: Famiglia Pizzeria, Coney’s Cones, and Paul’s Daughter Take-Out. The rides sit solemn and unmoving in the mist. The Thunderbolt (which was just a sign and a large empty field when I first visited), now twists and turns like a New York politician. The Soarin’ Eagle sits brooding on it’s perch. The iconic all wood Cyclone Roller Coaster, arguably Coney’s most famous, slowly rots in the rain, waiting for the warmth of the sun and young, carefree riders to bring it to life late into the sweltering, romantic night.

Just beyond, I pass the New York Aquariam where you can hear Sea Lions calling early mornings, waiting to be fed. During the offseason, there’s really no one around save for the locals who live in the old apartment buildings that line the street. The penguins on the other side of the Aquariam wall miss their audience. The people you meet at Coney Island during the offseason come for two reasons: like me, they want to explore an area without distraction with an air of sad melancholy or b) they live nearby and moved here because of the local Jewish and Russian communities to be by the water and promenade the boardwalk.




      





















Coney Island in Postcards: A Brief History



-Discovered in 1609 by Dutch Explorer Henry Hudson
-America's Playground" to "Sodom by the Sea."

- Although the island and the nearby section of the mainland were controlled by the Dutch, they chose not to settle there and granted a patent or title to the land to a group of English colonists. They established the town of Gravesend on the mainland.  The island was called “Coney Eylant” by the Dutch, possibly after the “coneys” or rabbits that lived there, although this derivation is disputed.  When the English took possession of New Netherlands from the Dutch, the new governor reconfirmed the patent for Gravesend to the colonists.  Coney Island was used by the colonists in common as grazing land for their livestock and remained essentially uninhabited for the next 150 years.

-Coney Island is a peninsular neighborhood and entertainment area in the southwestern section of the New York City borough of Brooklyn. The neighborhood is bounded by Brighton Beach to its east, Lower New York Bay to the south and west, and Gravesend to the north, and includes the subsections of Sea Gate to its west and Brighton Beach to its east.

-The origin of Coney Island's name is disputed, but the area was originally part of the colonial town of Gravesend. By the mid-19th century it had become a seaside resort, and by the late 19th century, amusement parks had also been built at the location. The attractions reached a historical peak during the first half of the 20th century. However, they declined in popularity after World War II and, following years of neglect, several structures were torn down. Various redevelopment projects were proposed for Coney Island in the 1970s through the 2000s, though most of these were not carried out. The area was revitalized with the opening of MCU Park in 2001 and several amusement rides starting in the 2010s.

Coney Island had around 32,000 residents as of the 2010 United States Census. The neighborhood is ethnically diverse, and the neighborhood's poverty rate of 27% is slightly higher than that of the city as a whole.